Certification or the quest for ultimate precision

Whatgood is a watch if it doesn’t deliver precision ?
In this respect, a number of brands are determined to prove that their mechanical jewels are only as good as their precision. At their disposal is the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, a venerable institution whose creation dates back to 1876. Its role? As a neutral, independent body, the COSC issues a chronometric precision certification based on an international standard stipulating a fifteen-day test protocol covering seven criteria. In the end, the rate deviation for a mechanical movement must not exceed the daily values of -4 to +6 seconds per day. If this is the case, it enters the pinnacle of precision watchmaking. Approximately 1.7 million pieces a year are awarded the precious label, representing a fifth of Swiss mechanical watch production. Only a handful of watch brands use the COSC service, with the top four being Rolex, Omega, Tissot and Breitling, which together account for over 80% of the watches bearing this certification.

 

IN EXTREME CONDITIONS

Breitling is the only Swiss brand to have all its watch movements COSC-certified, including that of the Superocean 44 Special Blacksteel, which is designed for the abyss and guaranteed water-resistant to 1000m.

 

WITH FINESSE

A tribute to the very first L.U.C watch to come out of Chopard Manufacture in 1986, this COSC-certified L.U.C XPS 1860 bears the Poinçon de Genève in its rose gold version, a guarantee of quality construction and finish.

 

 

ANTIMAGNETIC

With its calibre 8900 with coaxial escapement, this Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600 M is Master Chronometer certified, and therefore resistant to magnetic fields equivalent to those of an MRI (± 15,000 gauss) with a precision tolerance of between 0 and +5 seconds over 24 hours.

 

ALWAYS MORE

Certified as a Superlative Chronometer, the Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea is water-resistant to 3900m and meets criteria stricter than watchmaking standards, i.e. guaranteed precision with a tolerance margin of -2/+2 seconds per day.

Labels, everyone’s business… or almost

On the face of it, the Swiss Made appellation of origin and the COSC precision certificate might be enough to guarantee the quality of Swiss timepieces. But some have decided to go even further, subjecting finished watches to a battery of tests and constraints. Here’s a selection of the most demanding certifications:

The Geneva Seal

Introduced into Geneva cantonal law in 1886, essentially as an anti-counterfeiting weapon, it is one of the most uncompromising labels in the industry. It goes beyond movement certification to label the excellence of the watchhead.

Fleurier Quality Label

Dating from 2001, it requires COSC and Chronofiable ageing tests, a registered trademark since 1985.

METAS certification

More recently, Omega introduced a new Master Chronometer certification developed in collaboration with the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology. In addition to a COSC-certified chronometer movement, the water-resistance and non-magnetism of the finished watch are guaranteed.

Brand labels

1000-hour Master Control for Jaeger-LeCoultre, Poinçon Patek Philippe, Superlative Chronometer for Rolex… As a guarantee of quality, reliability and precision, some watchmaking companies have created their own labels.