Jewelry, a work of many hands

Each stone carries a memory, and the jewel reveals its unique beauty. In Lionel Meylan boutiques, this adventure is lived out by gemologists and jewelers. Their skills interact to bring unique creations to life.

At Lionel Meylan, jewels sublimate the gems, mother-of-pearl and pearls – often surprising stones – acquired over time by Florence and Cristina, passionate gemologists trained by HRD Antwerp and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) respectively. Before they shine, mounted on bracelets, earrings or necklaces, these jewels born of nature undergo a metamorphosis guided by expert hands. Creativity and expertise work in concert, on a score for several hands.

Revealing stones
It all starts with a sparkle. A sapphire, an opal, a tourmaline. Florence watches, scrutinizes, hunts. Her eyes detect the exceptional, the rarity of a nuance, the purity of a crystal. She explains: “We seize every opportunity to acquire the most beautiful stones. Then, some gems wait their moment, sometimes years, before revealing their potential. I like things that stand out from the crowd, that stand out from the crowd.

Then the rest can begin: what kind of setting will enhance the stone? How should it be mounted to
preserve it? It’s all about shapes and colors. Art Deco lines will highlight red spinels, set in an ornament; green tourmalines, cut in the shape of leaves, will reveal themselves in a plant creation. Sarah, jeweler, translates ideas into sketches. “We have
a very fluid exchange of ideas. It’s stimulating to be able to count on so much in-house know-how, we can find solutions together.”
Inspiration is everywhere, as in certain historical pieces, brought in by customers for appraisals. Art Nouveau and engraved signet rings are making a comeback, reinterpreted in the spirit of the times. “We capture the evolution of trends while maintaining our identity,” adds Cristina.

Caring for gems
Nothing is set in stone. Some stones are full of surprises. It’s time to think and adapt. “Sometimes we have a lapidary recut a gem to reveal its full beauty, without altering it,” explains Florence. Opal, with its fragile brilliance – and one of her favorite stones – requires a protective setting, or a piece of jewelry, such as earrings, with less risk of impact. Other gems, such as the rare and precious red spinel, need to be in sufficient numbers and of the same color to materialize as jewelry. As the collaboration progresses, the play with volumes is refined and, if necessary, 3D printing is used for the first prototypes. Once the structure is defined, the material takes shape in the hands of the jeweller. The precious metal is hammered, filed and polished. Once ready, it is passed into the hands of the gem-setter, who fixes the gems with precision. “Setting is a world in itself. You have to choose the right technique, depending on the stone, the setting and the desired brilliance,” says Sarah. Then the final touches are applied in the workshop, before the jewel is ready to meet its future owner.

A new lease of life for gemstones
Custom jewelry often embodies a special history and strong symbols. An inherited ring, an uncomfortable brooch or an old-fashioned pendant with precious diamonds can be given a new lease of life thanks to a personalized transformation. Sometimes, customers choose a gem from among Lionel Meylan’s treasures, as in the case of a customer whose project for rose gold earrings was born of a genuine love affair with the color of a tourmaline spotted on a vintage piece of jewelry. To bring her wish to life, 3D prototypes were made to obtain a design that lived up to her expectations. Once the model had been validated, the craftsmen took over in the workshop, fine-tuning every curve and setting with precision. “Thanks to the expertise brought together at Lionel Meylan, we can always meet our customers’ wishes,” Cristina appreciates. And the stones, made in essence to stand the test of time, begin a new life.