The 3D revolution

Whether it’s a one-off piece or a bespoke piece of jewelry, Lionel Meylan’s jewelry workshop combines traditional craftsmanship with innovative 3D techniques. From sketch to finished piece, welcome to a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of a moonstone-set rose gold ring.

It all begins with a soft sparkle on the palm of your hand: a faceted moonstone with opaline reflections streaked with orange. “When the lapidary presented it to us, we fell in love immediately,” recalls Sarah, jeweller at Lionel Meylan. The gem, rare in this size, immediately inspired a new creation. “It had an incredible light, soft and changing. We wanted a ring that paid homage to it, almost celestial, like a little fragment of heaven.”

Sketching: giving birth to an idea

First and foremost, you have to draw. The gesture is free, instinctive. The jeweler imagined a rounded, organic setting, the upper part of which hugs the curve of the gem, which looks as if it’s resting on a cushion of gold. “We wanted a light that diffuses, not a fixed design, but a living one,” she emphasizes. Around this idea of radiance, Sarah traces a curved ring in pink gold underlined by a diamond setting.

From sketch to 3D

Then it’s time to rationalize the creation. “We translate the artistic drawing into a technical drawing: a precise, dimensioned document that serves as the basis for 3D modeling. Using software, the jeweler recreates the ring in three dimensions. “It’s a very rigorous phase: we have to think about everything
– the thicknesses, the comfort on the finger, the constraints of the metal, the place of the setting.” On the screen, the jewel takes shape. Viewed from above, in profile, then in perspective, it reveals its exact volumes. “Before, I would have sculpted the wax by hand, as they did in the old days. Today, 3D allows me to be more precise, to adjust to within a tenth of a millimetre, while retaining the freedom of the initial gesture.”

Printing: giving shape to the model

Once the model has been validated, the resin is applied. The file is sent to the 3D printer, which reproduces the ring layer by layer using a laser beam. It’s fascinating to watch,” smiles Sarah. In just a few hours, the ring already exists, but in a light, fragile material.” This stage, often overlooked, has become essential. “We can make several prototypes, compare proportions, and have the customer try on the ring in the case of a made-to-measure creation. It saves time, but above all it saves accuracy: not everyone has 3D vision, so resin allows us to visualize the actual piece. This is an important moment: we really validate the volume and presence of the jewel. At this stage, everything can still evolve.

Rose gold casting: the material comes to life

The final file is sent to the caster, who performs the lost-wax casting. A few days later, the ring returns to the workshop, rough and still matt. “This is where our goldsmith’s work begins: adjusting, soldering and polishing. The moonstone is tried on, removed and replaced, until it finds its perfect position.

Snow setting: a miniature constellation

Around the center stone, a carpet of diamonds is being prepared. “I wanted a very soft snow setting, like a shower of stars. The setter adjusts each stone by hand. “The diamonds are set at different heights, creating a natural sparkle. It’s both masterful and free, a bit like a musical improvisation.”

Finishes: revealing the light

Finally comes the finishing touches. “Every surface is polished, every scratch cleaned. The metal takes on its final hue: a soft rose gold contrasting with the milky clarity of the stone. “Moonstone changes color with the light – it’s magical. Once the polishing is complete, Sarah holds it in her hand for a moment, twirling it under the lamp. “It’s a bit like our baby. We imagined it, drew it, saw it being born. When she leaves the workshop, it’s always an emotional moment.”